What You Need on Your Front End Before Taking on Remote Tracks
When you start planning a proper off-road escape—real remote stuff, where the maps are vague and the phone signal drops out before the bitumen ends—you quickly realise something: your front end cops the worst of it. We’re talking animal strikes, rogue tree limbs, rock shelves, and everything the Aussie bush can muster.
Let’s run through exactly what your front end needs to tackle the tracks that few dare to drive.
Bull Bars: Your First Line of Defence
The bull bar isn’t just a chunky bit of bling. It’s the gear that can save your bacon when a roo darts out at 80 kays an hour. To make the most out of it, installing a perfect fit is crucial. That means if you drive a Ford Ranger, you should get a Ford Ranger bull bar.
In general, you want high-tensile steel or heavy-duty alloy—stuff that can take a hit and still be ready for more. Properly engineered bull bars, such as the ones from Ironman 4×4, integrate with your vehicle’s safety systems, including airbags. That’s crucial—no point being protected from wildlife if you’re not protected from your own airbag going off at the wrong time.
And think of the extras. Winch compatibility? Tick. Aerial and light mounts? Absolutely. Fog lights? Handy when the weather turns or dust kicks up. Recovery points that are rated and tested? Non-negotiable.
Bash Plates and Underbody Armour: Shielding the Soft Bits
The bull bar might take care of the face, but what about the guts? That’s where bash plates come into play. Stock protection is fine for shopping centre gutters, but take a few knocks from jagged rocks and you’ll be wishing you upgraded.
Focus on plates that are laser-cut and shaped for your specific rig. They should bolt onto existing mounts with no drama, cover your sump, transmission, and radiator, and still be easy to pull off when it’s time for a service.
Suspension Geometry: It’s More Than Just a Lift
Throwing a lift kit on and calling it a day? That’s a rookie move. Lifting your 4WD changes everything, from castor angles to camber to how your rig handles under load.
A remote-track-ready suspension setup isn’t just taller—it’s smarter. You’re looking at heavy-duty coils, upgraded control arms, castor correction, and proper damping. That combo keeps your tyres planted when the corrugations hit and makes the ride home smoother when the esky’s rattling behind you.
Lighting the Way: Auxiliary Lights Done Right
Many standard headlights are barely good enough on a sealed road at night, let alone trying to pick out a washed-out bend in the middle of the high country. You’ll want a lighting setup that combines flood and spot beams, throwing light far down the track and illuminating the sides for any eyeshine or nasty surprises lurking in the bush. Here’s what to look for:
- LED driving lights with a minimum IP67 rating
- Isolated switching inside the cab
- Anti-theft locking nuts for peace of mind
Winch Systems: When Momentum Isn’t Enough
Sometimes all the momentum in the world won’t get you out. That’s when your winch earns its keep. Whether it’s a muddy track, a steep incline, or an awkward angle that doesn’t give you a run-up, having a winch up front changes the game.
Pick a winch with pulling power equal to at least double your vehicle’s gross weight. Synthetic rope is lighter, safer, and easier to work with. Make sure you can actually reach the clutch lever once your bar’s bolted on—more than a few have found that out the hard way.
Snorkels: More Than Just Water Crossings
Snorkels aren’t just for deep crossings or looking hardcore on Instagram. They’re crucial when you’re travelling in convoy through dust, sand, or bulldust that coats the outback like talc.
Mounted up high and sealed tight, a snorkel shifts your air intake to a cleaner, cooler spot. That means better airflow, longer-lasting filters, and less risk of choking your engine with crap off the track. And yes, they still do the business if you’ve got to splash through a swollen creek. Just make sure the seals are solid—because a leaky snorkel is just a snorkel-shaped funnel.
Don’t Forget Clearance, Angles, and Approach
Everything you add to your front end affects your approach angle, and that’s a big deal when you’re climbing ledges or coming down off a drop. Weight, height, and shape all matter here. Keep these points in mind:
- Opt for high-clearance bull bars with tapered edges.
- Use compact lighting setups that don’t protrude.
- Avoid low-hanging recovery points.
- Upgrade front springs to handle the added weight.
Optional But Worth Considering: Camera Systems and Sensors
Not everything about off-roading is about brute force. Sometimes, it’s about precision. A little front-facing camera tucked into your bull bar can give you eyes exactly where you need them—especially handy when navigating tight technical sections or trying not to bash your bar on a rock shelf.
Add in some parking sensors (tuned for your aftermarket gear), and suddenly low-speed manoeuvres feel like less of a gamble. While these gadgets aren’t essential, they’re the kind of extras that make you feel like you’ve got your rig dialled in just right.
Front-End Foresight is the Best Kind of Insurance
The front end is your rig’s punching bag, copping hits from every direction while you charge deeper into the unknown. Get it wrong, and you’ll feel it straight away. Get it right, and you can cruise through punishing terrain without flinching.
So before your next trip, take a proper look at what’s bolted to your front end. If anything looks dodgy or half-baked, now’s the time to sort it out. Because out in the sticks, when things go pear-shaped, it’s what’s up front that’ll make or break your trip.
